Why Should Drivers Care About Ethanol?

400 million tons of grain are produced in the US each year, and an average of 124 million of those tons to go ethanol distilleries – which has a tendency to push up food prices. Government mandates require standard gasoline fuel to contain 10% ethanol, a number which will soon rise to 15%. If you drive a car, you have ethanol in your tank!

The Problem with Ethanol Production

Producing ethanol creates a classic catch-22. Ethanol is made from corn, which, unlike fossil fuels, is a renewable resource; the end goal of switching from gas to ethanol is to reduce the environmental impact (aka “carbon footprint) of burning fuel in gasoline engines. The large-scale agriculture that makes ethanol fuel, however, consumes quite a bit of – you guessed it – fossil fuels. The standard gasoline needed to run farm equipment, create fertilizers, to distill, package and ultimately to transport ethanol is quite considerable. By the time you factor in all the fossil fuels that are used to manufacture ethanol, the environmental benefits are slim. When you factor in the carbon emissions created by burning ethanol fuel (which, though less than fossil fuels, still emits carbon), those benefits are slim to none.

Possible Alternatives to Corn Ethanol

Scientists and industry leaders are leaning towards using a “cellulosic ethanol”, an ethanol fuel that is made from inedible plant material rather than edible grain. This could help to reduce the food vs. fuel problem, but this type of ethanol is still in development and may take years to make an impact in the consumer market.

The Bottom Line for Drivers

Drivers have plenty of tough choices – which style car to buy, which model, used or new, insurance, the list goes on. Trying to make good car and fuel purchasing decisions in lieu of the food vs. fuel debate can be confusing and, for us consumers, ultimately fruitless. By the time fuel reaches us, the government and car manufacturers have made most of the decisions for us.

So how can drivers be more educated consumers when it comes to fuel usage? Drivers can reduce fuel usage in a number of ways: the least expensive way is to keep cars and trucks in tip-top shape to keep fuel usage as efficient as possible. Other options include opting for smaller, more fuel-efficient vehicles and, last, buying a car with a hybrid electric engine.

Get new wiper blades.

When we drivers lose visibility on the road, it seldom happens slowly or gives us fair warning to prepare. The best way to maintain visibility is to make sure your wiper blades are in good working order. The rubber blade tends to become stiff and crack after about six months, so wipers should be changed every six months as a rule. When buying new wipers, consider investing in higher-end wiper blades, as these can provide better visibility under bad conditions.

Check your tires’ tread.

By now you’ve probably switched back to summer tires. In order to provide good traction on wet roads, however, those summer tires need to have a decent amount of tread – don’t try to skate your way through on bald tires, or that’s exactly what you’ll be doing. Do a quick tread test with a penny – insert it into the grooves between your tires’ tread; if you can see the top of Lincoln’s head, it’s time for new tires!

An added technical note: tires lose wet traction (at 4/32 tread depth) before they lose dry traction (at 3/32) tread depth). To the naked eye, tires that have minimal remaining traction might look ok, but looks can be deceiving! If you bring your tires in to our shop for inspection, our technicians can not only check your car’s tires for tread depth, but also for correct wear patterns. Your vehicle usually tells you if there is a problem, the trick is knowing how to listen!

Be cautious when it first begins to rain.

When rain first hits dry pavement, the oil that has collected in the asphalt rises to the top in a slick, filmy residue. The first few minutes of a rainshower, before this film has washed away, can be the most dangerous time to drive, so be extra cautious of newly soaked pavement.

Avoid pavement grooves.

In a heavy rain, water tends to pool into the slight double grooves in the road – the grooves your car’s tires fit into nicely. If these grooves are deep or if the rain is very heavy, driving in flooded grooves can put you in danger of hydroplaning. Without going too close to the center or side lines, try to keep your tires out of the pooled water by driving slightly closer to the edge of the road.

Keep your distance.

Don’t wait to find out if your car is hydroplaning until you have to make a hard brake. Give yourself plenty of extra time to stop by doubling the distance between you and the car in front of you. By the same token, keep an eye on the cars behind you. If someone is too close for comfort, tap your brake lights as a polite reminder to back off a bit.

While the common sense and alertness are up to you, the driver, we can help you become a bit more automotive savvy. These are our top 6 signs it’s time to pull the car over before an accident or damage to your car occurs.

Keep in mind that when we say pull the car over immediately, we mean to pull the car over as soon as it is safe to do so.

Bad visibility

This is a no-brainer, but many of us still fail to follow our common sense when we lose visibility on the road. Sudden fog, a torrential downpour, a crack in the windshield, gooey wipers – any of these can make us nearly blind to other cars and the road in front of us. Ironically, studies have shown that most drivers actually speed up when visibility is compromised, because their perception of speed is hindered.

Rather than squirting the windshield with wiper fluid and hoping visibility returns soon, your safest bet is to pull over to the side of the road and attend to the problem (wait for the weather to pass, clean your windshield, call a tow truck).

Flames, smoke or vapor

Another no-brainer, but one that’s easy enough to ignore or deny when we’re in a rush. If water vapor is rising from under the hood, it could mean that there’s a coolant leak. If it’s a slow leak or the fluid is hitting a hot pipe that causes it to steam, it doesn’t pose an immediate threat to your car’s engine, but a more severe leak can quickly cause your engine to overheat, which can ruin your car’s engine and cost you thousands. Smoke can be caused by something innocuous – such as oil dripping on to a hot pipe – but it can also indicate a more serious problem (left the oil cap off again?), such as a fire. It’s safe to assume that if your car is issuing flames, there’s a big problem, and you should exit the car immediately!

Sudden loose or off-kilter steering

A sudden change in handling can indicate a number of problems, some of them very bad and others not-quite-so-bad. Suddenly sloppy steering or steering that pulls dramatically in one direction can mean a blown tire, a loose wheel or simply a lost wheel weight. Blown tires can be fixed easily, but damaged wheels (what will happen if you keep driving) can’t. A wheel that is about to fall off is major bad news, and stopping the vehicle before this occurs can prevent both a severe accident and severe damage to your car. Rather than trying to diagnose the problem while going down the road, be safe – pull over and check it out.

Temperature or oil gauges in the red

A hot engine always = bad news for your car, and an engine that’s not properly lubricated (that’s what the oil is for) is equally bad news. Both of these can cause severe engine problems in very short order. If your car’s oil light goes on or temperature gauge pushes into the red, pull over immediately and take a look. Being late or missing an appointment is a much better option than destroying your car’s engine by overheating.

In-cabin chaos

Kids fighting in the back seat? Dropped that CD somewhere on the floor? Spilled hot coffee on your lap? Botched mascara application? Don’t try to deal with these while flying down the road – be safe: pull over and deal with the problem before taking your 3 ton machine back on the road.

Foreign noise

A new noise can mean a number of things, some bad and others completely harmless. If a new, loud noise is suddenly coming from your car and not from the road or a piece of debris you’ve run over, chances are your vehicle has lost a key component and continuing to drive could risk further damage. Don’t take the risk – pull over and examine the situation before continuing on.

If you’re on the road and experience any of the mechanical issues mentioned above, feel free to give us a call at our shop. Our technicians can help you determine whether it’s safe for you to drive your vehicle to a repair shop or if it needs to be towed. Remember, when it comes to your car, it’s always better – and less expensive – to be safe than sorry!

Auto AC Maintenance

How often your car’s AC needs to be maintained really depends on the age of the car. If the vehicle is new or new-ish, it’s probably okay for it go three to four years between maintenance. Older cars’ air conditioners have acquired more wear and tear and may be more prone to leaking, so they really should be looked at at least once a year. If your car is older than 5 years, it’s a good idea to ask your auto technicians to take a look at the AC during its springtime oil change, battery check and other routine maintenance tasks.

Diagnosing Common Air Conditioner Problems

There are a number of things that can go wrong with your car’s AC, and there are a number of ways that AC problems can manifest themselves. Knowing what problems to look for and their potential causes can help you diagnose a problematic air conditioner quickly, before more damage occurs.

Leaking Coolant

Car air conditioners require refrigerant to run. A lack of coolant is perhaps the most common AC problem; in older cars, the AC’s refrigerant can simply run out after years of use, or leaks in the hoses can develop. When there is little or no coolant in the AC, it simply won’t generate cold air.

Leaks are key to keep in mind when having your AC serviced; simply refilling the air conditioner with coolant won’t fix the problem if there is a leak. Broken ACs need to be thoroughly checked for leaks before they’re refilled with coolant and sent on their way.

Fluctuating Temperatures

If your car’s air conditioner blows warm and cool air sporadically, it’s typically because moisture has gotten into the assembly and is blocking the hose with ice buildup. This can also be caused by a faulty electrical system which fails to trigger the AC’s compressor. Either way, this can be a relatively simply problem to fix if caught quickly.

Stinky Air

Smelly air coming from the AC is another common problem that’s caused by bacteria breeding in the evaporator. If caught in a reasonable amount of time, this can usually be fixed by a technician without requiring a replacement.

Noisy Air Conditioner

If a rattling noise accompanies the air conditioner each time it turns on, it’s most likely caused by a broken component in the AC compressor. Most of the time, this will require the compressor to be replaced.

Remember: when it comes to car problems, prevention is the best – and least expensive – cure! Our name may say brakes and tires, but our certifications and equipment say so much more; we are certified for air conditioner service and have the most current Bosch AC equipment.

There are, however, some details about extended warranties that dealerships often leave out, and not everyone needs – or can even make good use of – extended warranties. Some car experts swear that extended warranties are a waste of money. For every day drivers, trying to make the right decision about their vehicle’s warranties can be a very confusing process.

So what is the deal with extended warranties? Are they worth it, or not?

The truth is that there’s no simple answer. Extended warranties can be useful and money saving in some circumstances, but for many drivers, they simply don’t make sense.

First – what exactly is an extended warranty?

An extended warranty is something of a misnomer; it’s actually more like insurance than it is like a warranty. It’s essentially an insurance policy purchased from the factory or – in many cases – by the dealership itself which covers repair and some maintenance items once the vehicle’s factory warranties have expired. The logic behind purchasing extended warranties is that if you purchase an extended warranty, you will pay more in your car payments but won’t have to shell out for unforeseen maintenance and repairs that may be required down the road.

What does an extended warranty cover?

What an extended warranty covers differs from purchase to purchase, but by and large, extended warranties typically cover big repair jobs, such as a failed transmission. Some extended warranties cover some maintenance, but many warranties that claim to cover maintenance in truth only cover a portion of required maintenance, leaving the car owner to pay 50% or more for routine maintenance such as oil and brake pad changes. Many new car owners may not realize that purchasing an extended warranty does not exempt them from having to pay for routine maintenance.

Will an extended warranty actually save me money in the long term?

It depends. Cars are more reliable than ever, making the likelyhood of a new vehicle having a significant breakdown within the extended warranty period quite low. The truth is that most car owners who have purchased extended warranties never need to use the warranty they paid extra for. Some car owners do end up using the warranty, but the amount they saved with the warranty still doesn’t outweigh the cost of the warranty itself long term. Think of it like this: if you were in Vegas and were going to bet $ 1,500.00 on one roll of the dice, you would have a 50% chance of winning $ 3,000.00 – and a 50% chance of losing $1,500.00. That’s the simplest way of looking at many of the extended warranties that are sold.

There are, however, some exceptions. If you plan on using your new vehicle for a significant amount of travel or have a long daily commute, an extended warranty might make sense. Another reason an extended warranty might be a good idea is if you are bad at saving and managing finances and don’t keep the kind of cash on hand that would be required to pay for a large, unforeseen breakdown. An extended warranty can act as a buffer against the expense of unexpected repairs and prevent transportation emergencies. For drivers who aren’t good at saving money, the risk prevention can make it worth the cost of an extended warranty.

The bottom line: if you’re considering purchasing an extended warranty, know exactly what the warranty covers, then consider whether or not it makes sense to you individually. How much will you be traveling? Do you put a light, average or excessive amount of wear and tear on your vehicles? Do you have a good savings buffer, or are you living paycheck to paycheck?

Keep in mind, of course, that regular, quality car maintenance (not usually covered by warranties) will significantly reduce the likelihood of you having to deal with a breakdown.

Whether your favorite summer weather vehicle is a convertible Porsche, a vintage Bronco or a Suzuki Boulevard, there are a few steps vehicle owners need to take before revving up the engine and taking to the open road.

1) Clear out the critters. If you haven’t ever had the unfortunate experience of finding out the hard way that mice have nested in your car vents, you might be surprised how often this happens. Squirrels, mice and even neighborhood cats think the nooks and crannies in your stored vehicle are great places to bed down or store food. Firing up the engine before checking vents, under the hood and carriage can create a very unpleasant scene and cause your car to stink for months.

2) Check all fluids. This includes oil, transmission, radiator/coolant, power steering and wiper fluid. If any of these fluids are low, empty or sludgy, it’s time for them to be changed/refilled. Even if most of these fluids are “ok”, springtime is a great time to have all these fluids replaced, especially after a winter of being in storage. Check all fluids again after the engine is fired up and the car has had a chance to warm up a bit; they might show lower levels or more sludge once the engine has cycled for a few minutes.

3) Charge that battery! Hopefully you took a few minutes each month over the winter to allow your stored car’s battery to recharge; allowing the battery to fully deplete shortens the battery’s overall lifespan. Even if you have kept it well charged over the winter, it’s a good idea to allow the battery to fully recharge before heading out.

4) Check tires for proper pressure and weathering. Air can slowly leak out of tires over the winter, and tires that are well-used can also dry and crack due to changes in the air’s humidity. Either of these problems will cause inefficient gas mileage at best, poor alignment, unsafe traction and flat tires at worst. If you’re unsure of whether your car’s tires are still good or not, bring your vehicle down to the shop and our technicians can help. Remember: when it comes to maintenance issues that affect vehicle safety, it’s better to be safe than sorry!

5) Top up with fresh fuel. Octane levels in gasoline drop each month, so if your vehicle has been sitting in storage all winter, by springtime the fuel left in the tank is not much good. This is especially true if your vehicle hasn’t had the luxury of being stored in a dry, cool indoor stable. After clearing out vents and charging the battery, your first stop should be the gas station (where you can re-inflate low tires as well).

If you’re not at all mechanically inclined and all these tasks sound daunting, schedule a post-storage maintenance appointment for your vehicle and let the professionals make sure your summer ride is safe and in top performing condition.

But what are the real effects of Flex Fuel, and do its benefits make it worthwhile for the average driver?

The answers aren’t entirely clear. There are, however, a few facts that every driver of a Flex Fuel-capable vehicle should know:

What is Flex Fuel? 

Flex Fuel is an ethanol-rich fuel blend of ethanol and gasoline, containing an ethanol to gasoline ratio as high as 85% ethanol to 15% gasoline. Because burning ethanol creates fewer carbon emissions, Flex Fuel creates less carbon pollution overall. Flex Fuel typically costs 10-15% less than regular gasoline.

Which cars can run on Flex Fuel?

Most modern Flex Fuel vehicles have a logo somewhere – usually on the back or near the gas cap – designating it as Flex Fuel capable, but not all do. Over seven million cars on the road can run on Flex Fuel, so if you’re unsure about your vehicle, check with your car’s manufacturer.

Does it cost less money to use Flex Fuel?

Yes and no. Flex Fuel typically costs 10-15% less than standard gas, but it also has a negative impact on performance, cutting average miles per gallon by 25-30%. Overall, this means that drivers relying on Flex Fuel are spending roughly 10% more than they would be on regular gas.

Don’t the environmental benefits of Flex Fuel outweigh the cost?

Maybe. It’s true that burning ethanol creates fewer carbon emissions than burning regular gasoline, but exactly how much less is still up for debate. Critics of Flex Fuel point out that manufacturing ethanol – which is made from corn – requires the burning of fossil fuels, outweighing any end benefits. They also speculate making ethanol is a waste of an edible crop, which could be used to provide low-cost food instead.

The bottom line: if lowering your carbon footprint is a high priority to you, using Flex Fuel might be the way to go – although exactly how much it will benefit the environment is still up for debate. If you’re looking to save money, standard gasoline is still the way to go in most cases.

Drivers of all vehicles should, however, keep in mind that a well maintained exhaust system is designed to burn off most harmful emissions, and that a well maintained vehicle (regular oil, air filter, transmission fluid changes, wheel alignments etc.) will use less gas than one that’s irregularly or poorly maintained.

Don’t count your current vehicles out yet! While there isn’t much that can be done (apart from an engine overhaul) to make a significant impact on your current car’s MPG, there’s plenty you can do to raise it slightly. Added up over time, an improvement in .5 to 3 miles per gallon can make a big impact – on the environment, and on your wallet!

Some of these tips are common sense reminders, and some may not be things you had thought made a different to your car’s mileage. While taking one or two of the steps below may not have a significant impact, being energy efficient in all your driving behaviors can make a big difference over time.

Try it out! Driving green is actually quite simple.

Get rid of junk in the trunk. Haven’t yet gotten around to taking those winter or summer tires out of the trunk and into the garage? Are you hauling around a load of such-and-such you keep forgetting to drop off at the so-and-so? Every bit of weight your car carries around increases its fuel consumption slightly, and over time, the difference between getting 23.5 MPG and 24 MPG can equal quite a bit. So empty out the trunk and give your car’s engine a lighter load!

Keep tires inflated properly. Soft tires are one of the biggest culprits when it comes to making your vehicle’s engine work harder than it should. Added on to this, unevenly inflated tires can cause alignment troubles and uneven tire wearing. Your car will run better – and require less gas and maintenance – all around if you keep the tires inflated at their recommended levels.

Routine maintenance! We’ve said it before, but it’s true: routine auto maintenance can improve your vehicle’s performance and lifespan – and that includes its fuel efficiency. Dirty spark plugs and dirty air filters waste fuel; spark plugs and air filters are something our technicians check at each maintenance visit. Sludgy engine oil, transmission fluid and other fluids can also cause your engine to work harder than it needs to. The bottom line: a well maintained car is an efficient car!

Don’t let the engine idle. While some older model cars (i.e. “classic cars”) may benefit from having a warmed engine block, modern cars don’t need to “warm up” before they’re ready to go – even in the winter time. Unless it’s well below freezing, one or two minutes is plenty of time for the engine to warm up. Sitting in the car with the engine on for more than 60 seconds uses more fuel than it does to start the car – so keep the engine turned off unless you’re ready to go.

Go the speed limit. The faster your vehicle goes above the speed of 60 MPH, the less fuel efficient it becomes – that’s just math. Going well over the speed limit not only puts you and others on the road at more risk, but it also makes your car’s engine less efficient.

Speed up and slow down gradually. If you’ve ever carefully watched a professional auto racer, you might have noticed that they do their best to avoid slowing down and speeding up quickly. When going around sharp corners, they’ll slowly ease into the corners and accelerate out, reserving natural inertia to propel their vehicle.

Regular street drivers like us could take a lesson from racers by relying on our cars’ inertia to help keep it in motion, rather than constantly braking and punching the gas. By letting your car gradually slow down before a red light or stop sign, slowly accelerating back up to full speed at intersections and following far enough behind vehicles that braking isn’t necessary, you can significantly reduce the amount of gas your car uses. This style of driving is particularly important for city driving, which requires more acceleration and deceleration.

The first – and most important – of those precautions is to use snow tires! Different from summer and all weather tires, snow tires provide extra soft, sticky grip for icy and snowy roads during winter. They’re a must-have for every Michigan vehicle.  How would you like to have the same confidence driving on snow and ice as you have driving in rain in your all weather tires?

Even a rear wheel drive car with 350hp can be sure footed in snow and ice, with the help of quality snow tires. Snow tires give drivers the traction – and confidence – to no longer have white knuckles when using the passing lane on bad roads, and to lead those 20 car chains on the ice-laden freeway rather than following.

As you check off your fall list, make sure you include readying your vehicle for winter with adequate snow tires. Have questions about snow tires? We’ve answered some common questions below; you can also stop by the shop and speak with one of our technicians. In addition to helping you pick out winter tires, we will store your summer tires for free during the winter, and likewise your snow tires in the summer, so you don’t have to lug them home and store them in your garage.

When should I have snow tires put on?

Ideally, before the first winter storm hits. Because Michigan weather isn’t always predictable, we recommend getting your vehicle ready with the right tires in late fall, early to mid November, at the latest. Try to avoid putting snow tires on too early, however, as driving on dry pavement will wear out snow tires’ traction much more quickly.

Do I really need snow tires, or are all weather tires okay to use?

No, when it comes to giving you the starting (and, more importantly – stopping) traction you need, all weather tires (AWT) just don’t cut it. All weather tires are great for rain and shine during the other three seasons, but your vehicle needs the grip of snow tires to perform safely on snow and ice.

My vehicle already has AWD. Do I really need snow tires too?

Yes, you really do. All-Wheel drive might be enough to get you going through slushy snow and black ice, but they won’t help you stop when it matters. Being able to stop quickly enough is critical in many winter driving situations, and the ten to thirty extra feet it takes you to stop without snow tires could mean the difference between a close call and a fatal accident. Here at the shop, we even put snow tires on our customer shuttle, in order to provide our customers the safest ride to and from work or home when their car is in the shop.

My vehicle is front/rear wheel drive. Is it okay to only use two snow tires?

Nope, it’s not. Having snow tires only on the tires which power your vehicle will give it imbalanced traction, and won’t provide the kind of stopping and starting power that having four balanced snow tires will. The stopping power and traction of a vehicle with only two snow tires is barely better than a vehicle with no snow tires at all – so double your investment and quadruple your safety.

Even classic, sports and performance cars can be driven in the winter, with the help of quality snow tires. Drive your “cool” car in the winter when everyone else puts theirs away!

How often do I have to buy new snow tires?

If they’re not too worn down, snow tires can often be re-used for a second, and sometimes even third winter season. Use our general rule of thumb on tire tread depth to tell if your snow tires have enough tread yet, but remember that the more worn your snow tires are, the less stopping power they’ll provide. If you’re at all unsure about whether or not your snow tires are still good, have one of our technicians look them over before they’re installed, and we’ll give you our honest opinion.  Remember: your summer tires will last longer if you switch to snow tires during the winter.

What brand of snow tire is best?

We carry plenty of great snow tire brands which offer a wide price range, but what’s most important is to have tires that are made specifically for snow, and for your vehicle. Not all snow tires are the same; the sticky compound in some tires is only 3/32 deep, while other manufactures mold the sticky compound through the complete tread-depth. If you make an appointment with one of our tire specialists, we can show you our inventory of Hankook, Cooper, Nokian, Michelin and other snow tires and help you choose which brand and type offer the best value for your vehicle. Our tire knowledgeable service advisors can educate you on the different brands and what they offer.

For example…

A while back, one of our customers had totaled their car and began looking for a new one. After discussing the benefits and pitfalls of buying new versus used, the customer decided to purchase used. They did not, however, opt for a pre-purchase inspection.

Soon enough, the customer brought the new-to-her car, complaining of a noise in the rear. We swapped cars with the customer and drove the car back to the shop. On the expressway, the noise is loud enough, but by the time the car is coming to a stop at a light, it sounds as if the car has been rear ended – but there’s no one behind the car. The noise turned out to be a bad differential, so we replaced the complete rear axle assembly (with a used assembly, since this is an older vehicle), and completed the repair.

Twenty five minutes after the customer has picked up her vehicle, she calls in again telling us that the car is low on power, and that he’s concerned she won’t be able to get to her next appointment. We pick the vehicle up again, give the customer a loaner car, and start the diagnostic process. The car runs fine on our standard and extended road test, and all online research shows no common problems or known related issues. Unable to locate the problem, we sent the vehicle home with the customer, only for her to discover the same problem twenty five minutes later. The car is brought back to our shop, and this time we take the car for an extended half an hour diagnostic drive with all diagnostic equipment running. We finally find the problem: the car needs a new transmission, plain and simple. There are, however, no remanufactured transmissions available for this particular vehicle, and the cost of rebuilding the transmission would cost more than the car is worth.

The customer wisely took all this information back to the business she had purchased the used car from and asked the dealer to buy the vehicle back. After a week of negotiations (and, we’re pretty sure, some hair pulling), the dealer finally agreed.

Having learned her lesson, the next used vehicle our customer looked at, she brought into the shop for a pre-purchase inspection. The second car, too, had major transmission problems – problems which would have cost more than it was worth to fix. The third vehicle was the charm; the third one she brought to us worked great for her business and personality, and the price was right. Since purchasing her “new” used vehicle, she has joined our Lifetime Oil Change Club – and the car has run flawlessly.

You can see why we recommend all our customers have a pre-purchase inspection performed on any vehicle they’re serious about buying. A level one pre-purchase inspection generally costs about $95; a level two pre-purchase inspection, which is slightly more, is ideal for classic, muscle, antique and exotic cars.

The moral of the story? If you plan on buying a used vehicle, the money that you’ll invest with us to have the vehicle thoroughly examined will save you enough time and potential major repair costs to be well worth the expense. Not to mention, you will have the peace of mind of knowing – not just hoping – that you made a great buy.